By
Fran BushMindy, Frances, and I left Charlotte, North Carolina, USA, on Wednesday afternoon and arrived in England Thursday morning, losing 5 hours with the time change. Upon arriving at Gatwick Airport, I felt as if I had walked through a mirror into the past - old and new, side by side. Even the language seemed so different that I thought we needed an interpreter: Mind The Gap, for watch your step; Signs with For Let, instead of For Rent; Post the Letter, instead of Mail the Letter; Scones, replaced Biscuits; Biscuits, instead of Cookies; Chips, not Fries; Crisps, instead of Chips; Give Way, instead of Yield; You Queue-Up, instead of Stand In Line. I thought I spoke English, but I found that I did not speak England’s ENGLISH!
As soon as we were through Immigration and Customs, we were met by our British host. No, this was not a traditional tour. We had the good fortune to stay with a wonderful British family, Brian, Pauline and their two children, Carla, age 10 and Phil, age 9. I had known the family for quite a few years but Mindy and Frances had only met them once. Brian escorted us through the massive airport and to his waiting car and our wonderful adventure began. It was a good thing that Brian was driving because I would have been in the wrong lane. Sitting in the front passenger seat on the left side of the car just did not feel right without a steering wheel!
The weather was drizzly but the countryside was beautiful with rolling hills, quaint farms and villages. Even though I was exhausted from the trip, I would not close my eyes for a minute for fear that I might miss some lovely slice of England. It was the end of October, with all of the fall splendor of golds, reds and oranges, but to my surprise and delight, the grass was green and the contrast was Delightful.
The trip from Gatwick to Gillingham, Kent took just over an hour. Brian and Pauline have a lovely home in Gillingham (in Robin Hood’s area? I saw Robin Hood Lane and Sherwood Oak) which is about 50 miles east of London. We took a break for breakfast, visited with the family for a few minutes, and met their cats. They have two of the biggest domestic cats I have ever seen; one of them stood on the floor and put his paws on the dining room table, just to say HI. We took time to freshen up but how could we take a nap when there was so much to see and do! So, off we went sightseeing, with Brian as our tour guide and driver. Pauline, who is a teacher, and Carla and Phil had to go to school.
First stop, Rochester Upon Midway, about 25 miles east of London. Rochester is an old cathedral city in Kent dating from Roman times, built within the walls of a Roman town from the 3rd century. The town was built on the Roman road from London to Canterbury and Dover, on the north bank of the River Midway. There is so much history in this area that it boggles the mind. With Brian’s personal knowledge of the area, he proved to be an excellent tour guide!
The first order of business was exchanging US Dollars for British Pounds. There were quite a few places that exchanged currency with the only difference being the amount of service charge deducted. The exchange rate was the same in every place but changed from day to day with the selling price. It was a little confusing at first but after a while we started thinking in Pounds. The coins were also confusing - there are so many sizes. Since we wanted to take some coins home with us, we just kept hoarding them and using bills. (The merchants never seemed to mind us being dumb.) We found the best deal was using a credit card. We always got the best exchange rate and did not get charged an exchange service charge.
At one point, we wanted to mail some post cards. Brian had to point out the mailboxes. They are round and red. The old red phone booths are a delight. The new phone booths look just like ours. (I hope they don’t get stupid and get rid of all the old ones!)
The Rochester Cathedral is Beautiful on the outside as well as in. The Cathedral is huge by American standards. I felt dwarfed. The stained glass windows are gorgeous and the organ is unbelievable. There is a beautiful door that a giant could have used. A feeling of Peace exists within the entire building. The stone work is amazing. How they could possibly build something so intricate without power tools or cranes is beyond me! Rochester got its first bishop and church in 604 AD. Rochester Cathedral is the second oldest cathedral in England, after Canterbury. The present building of the Rochester Cathedral was built in 1080 AD with additions built in the 12Th. and 14Th. centuries. The architecture is Roman, Gothic and Early English Perpendicular.
Prominent citizens were buried in the Floor or in coffins on display in the Cathedral. It was quite a shock to realize that I was walking on a person’s grave. I had been taught that to step on a person’s grave was disrespectful. And yet in English cathedrals, to be buried in the floor, where everyone would walk over you, was a privilege reserved for the most prominent and richest citizens. The coffins are very elaborate, often with a statue of the person on the top. The crypt has a thick wood door, about 12-ft tall, covered with leather. (I wonder what they were trying to keep in!)
From the Cathedral we walked across the street to Rochester Castle. The first view of the castle from the cathedral is very impressive. The castle wall was partially built on the original Roman city wall. The curtain wall, as the castle wall is called, ranges from several feet to fifteen feet thick, with arrow slots and some sections with rooms. It must have provided a safe haven for the residents during medieval times. Rocks thrown by a catapult would not have made a dent in that wall. Rochester Castle was built in 1087 on the bank of the River Midway and was one of the first castles in England to be built of stone. A moat surrounded the castle on the three land sides. The effects of the moat can still be seen on the castle walls. The castle was a military fortification and witnessed three major sieges, two in 1215 and again in 1264. The castle was breached in the second siege of 1215, but they had to dig a tunnel under the south turret and burn the foundation to do it.
The Great Tower or Keep was added in 1127 and is 70 ft square, four stories high and 125 ft tall. Our first view of the Keep was with a mist that gave a surreal quality to the castle as though history could have been remembered in the mist. The castle Keep no longer has a roof but the stairs are solid and we climbed all the way to the top. The steps are uneven heights and worn in the middle from all of the feet treading their way through the centuries. We will long remember the view of Rochester, Rochester Cathedral and the English countryside from the top of that castle. It was well worth the climb. The Keep had a well with an opening on the third floor, where the main living quarters were, so that water did not have to be carried up the stairs. There is a model of what the original structure was like. (It was sturdy, but it must have been cold! No central heating then!) The castle was partially demolished in 1610 and went through several owners before the government bought it and made it public property. I am so glad it has been saved!
Rochester Cathedral and Rochester Castle were listed in the Doomsday Book of 1086. The Domesday or Doomsday Book is the result of a census in England ordered by William the Conqueror and completed in 1086. It was a survey of population, value, extent and ownership of lands at that time. It was written in Latin in two volumes and is over 800 pages long. It is now kept in the Public Records Office in London.
It was late afternoon when we walked the streets of Rochester. We were very tired from our trip and our legs were aching from climbing the castle stairs but we refused to quit. There were so many sights to see. Rochester was the home of Charles Dickens, who lived at Gad’s Hill Place, and the area was often used in his novels. The Charles Dickens Center tells the story of Dickens’ life and his works. The Guildhall, a beautiful building built in 1687, is now a museum. The top of the Guildhall has a golden ship. The Corn Exchange has a HUGE Clock suspended from the side of the building.
The city gate is a 14th century monastic gate called Priors Gate. It is a tunnel through a building with living quarters upstairs that served as a gateway to the city. It was part of the 1344 city wall that expanded the city beyond the limits of the original Roman city wall. Parts of the original Roman city wall can still be seen.
Flint was a popular building material back then and can be seen in many buildings in Rochester and the surrounding area.
The pubs and restaurants, such as the Jolly Knight, were delights to behold. The Shopping was great and the bakeries could tempt a saint. (Of course not being saints, we had to try one of everything.) The people were so nice. We must have gotten at least a dozen apologies for the weather, and everyone made us feel welcome. Rochester is a Great place to visit and we wished that we had the time to return. There was so much more to see. Maybe next trip.
By now we were totally limping along and had to say goodbye to Rochester. Brian took us home to a great supper, wonderful company, hot baths and warm beds. I slept better than I ever have away from home. (Maybe I should climb a castle more often.)
Friday dawned with light rain and, occasionally, heavier showers. After a hearty breakfast, we started on another day to remember. Brian was again our tour guide, driver and friend. I have never seen a man who was that patient with women shopping here and stopping there to look at everything.
Our first adventure of the day was Chilham, Kent, located about 5 miles southwest of Canterbury. Chilham has an extensive history. One of Julius Caesar’s first battles in England was fought near Chilham before the birth of Christ. The remains of a Roman senate house were found in the 1700’s.
Chilham is a quaint little village with lovely Tudor and Jacobean cottages and shops. It’s on a hill with the Town Square at the top and houses going off in each direction. The Town Square is picturesque, with half-timbered structures - brick and white buildings, trimmed in black with brick or tile roofs. One of our favorite memories will be of a little dog looking down at us from a second floor window of a house on the Town Square. We sang "How Much Is That Doggie In The Window" the rest of the day.
At one end of the Town Square stands Chilham Castle, a private residence that is not open to the public. There is a Norman Keep that dates from about 1160. The present castle, which is really a manor house, was completed in 1616 and looks more like a hotel than my idea of a castle. The material used to build the present building is mostly native brick. The castle is built on 300 acres with terraced lawns and rose gardens. The grounds are open to the public from April to October.
At the other end of the square is The White Horse Pub, a public house dating from the 16th century. It is a lovely building that guards the entrance to the church.
The church in Chilham was fascinating. There was a church in Chilham at the time of the Norman Conquest of 1066 that was recorded in the "Domesday Book" of 1086. The present building is The Bells of St. Mary’s Church, small by English standards, but beautiful outside and in, built from 1420 to 1864. It is built almost entirely of flint. The bell tower, 68 ft tall, was built in 1534 and has eight bells. These bells turn full circle when rung and produce some of the most beautiful music I have ever heard. The clock dates from 1727 and the weather vane was erected in 1786.
The earliest grave stone in the churchyard is dated 1638. Some of the gravestones have raised brass lettering. We wandered down the path looking at graves and back up through the woods still reading the dates on the stones. After a quick stop at a souvenir shop and a small gift shop / post office it was time to move on to the next part of our adventure.
On the way to Canterbury, I managed to spot a Windmill. Brian told us that Kent has several. A visit to one has to be included on my next trip! The countryside was dotted with thatched roof cottages and Oast Houses. Some of the Oast Houses have been converted to homes. Our trip to an Oast House is included later on in this narrative.
Our visit to Canterbury included a walk down High Street. The city has ancient buildings and narrow cobbled stone lanes, some only wide enough for one small car. Canterbury has a Roman Museum that I would like to visit next time. The city is lovely and rich in history. It was a thriving town in the 4th century. Much of the original city wall remains. It was built in the 13th century on Roman foundations. The Canterbury Museum brings Chaucer’s "Canterbury Tales" to life. We stopped in quite a few shops, and visited the Canterbury Cathedral. The city was very busy and crowded because of the Canterbury Festival. I think I would have enjoyed the city more if we had been able to visit at another time, when it was less crowded. To really explore the city would take, at least, a couple of days under less crowded conditions.
At the end of High Street is the Buttermarket, an open area with cart vendors in front of the Christchurch Gate. The Christchurch Gate is wonderful to see, with shields and statues. The main statue is of Christ seated in judgment. (Although I would not have recognized the statue as that of Christ. It does not look like any portrayal I have seen, and I can not imagine Christ looking that grim and forbidding.) The Gate was completed in 1517 and acts as a gateway to the grounds of Canterbury Cathedral. It is one of the earliest examples of a late Gothic building. The Gate and Cathedral were damaged during Henry VIII’s reign. The Gate was fully restored between 1931-37.
I thought Rochester Cathedral was huge but it does not even begin to compare to the size of Canterbury Cathedral. It is tremendous, with massive arches and an organ larger than my house! The stained glass windows are Wonderful. The bell tower, known as Bell Harry, has fourteen bells that turn full circle when they are rung and the sound is sweet and clear.
It is hard for me to imagine the history these walls have seen. The Canterbury Cathedral’s official name is the Cathedral Church of Christ, Canterbury. It is the Mother Church of the Anglican Christian religion. In 597 AD, King Ethelbert, King of Kent, was the first Christian convert and gave the present cathedral site, the royal palace, and an old British or Roman church for the Cathedral of Canterbury. In 1067 the first cathedral was destroyed by fire. The monks constructed the Norman nave and the crypt in 1077. Another section was built in 1130 over the crypt. The crypt became the site of the shrine of Thomas Becket, Archbishop, who was murdered in the cathedral in 1170. The shrine became a place of pilgrimage where miracles were reported to happen. The new section was destroyed by fire in 1174 but the crypt and shrine were spared. The burned section was rebuilt, expanded and completed in 1200. Canterbury was plundered by King Henry VIII in 1547 and the Shrine of Thomas Becket was desecrated and robbed. The Cathedral was restored after 1660. Air raids during World War II destroyed a large area in Canterbury but the main part of the Cathedral was unharmed. Many of the stained glass windows had been removed and stored during WWII to prevent them from being destroyed.
The Cathedral contains numerous tombs including King Henry IV, who is the only English King buried at Canterbury, and his wife Joan of Navarre. The tomb of Edward, the Black Prince, is worth seeing. There is a brass statue on top of his tomb and his original helmet shield, gauntlets, and coat of arms, which are over 600 years old, are displayed above his tomb. There are, also, Saxon Kings buried in the ruins of St. Augustine’s Abbey adjacent to the Cathedral.
Our visit was a little rushed due to a service that was scheduled, and there were too many visitors to really absorb the history. I would have liked to sit in the quiet and absorb the atmosphere. Maybe next time. I intend to return. It was well worth the trip!
After another walk down High Street, we left Canterbury behind to continue our adventure.
Along the side of the highway, I saw a strange shaped building or contraption. It looked like something from outer space, with funny shaped eyes on top. Brian told me to look closer, that it was a boring machine used to bore the Chunnel. The Chunnel is the tunnel under the English Channel connecting England and France. A train leaves from Dover and travels through the Chunnel carrying passengers and their vehicles. The trip only takes about 45 minutes. From Dover it is easy to cross the English Channel in several ways including by ferry, boat train, Hovercraft and the Chunnel.
After a very late lunch we drove to Dover to see the white cliffs. By the time we reached Dover the sun was setting and the cliffs, in shade, were not impressive. They say that from the top of the cliffs, on a clear day, you can see France, 21 miles across the Channel. But we did not have a clear day. We were doing good to see the harbor, which looked very interesting. They have a castle that we would have loved to see. It sits on top of a hill above the city and the view would have been worth the effort. The ancient ruins of a Roman lighthouse are within the outer castle walls. The central tower is about 100 ft square and 95 ft tall with walls up to 21 ft thick. But time did not allow sightseeing in Dover on this trip. Oh Well, Next Time!
Home we went to a late dinner, great company, and comfortable beds. After a good night’s rest we were ready to continue our adventure.
Saturday dawned with rain that did not last very long. During breakfast, Brian announced that our trip for today would be to Stonehenge and Bath. And, if time allowed, we would go to Cheddar Gorge, Sumerset, where cheddar cheese is made and stored in caves to cure. Pauline, Carla and Phil, and their Furby, named Snowball, went with us. Brian had rented a new seven-passenger van so that we would all be comfortable.
The drive was beautiful - some rain, some sun. The scenery was fantastic, with rolling countryside, green grass and beautiful fall colors. Carla and Phil were so good, talking to each other in low voices, playing I spy, reading, sleeping, and occasionally asking Pauline a question. I can not imagine American children behaving that well on a long car trip!
After another hour or two of beautiful scenery, Brian told us to look off in the distance and we got our first glimpse of Stonehenge. The busy highway runs within 100 yards of the huge standing stones. When we arrived at Stonehenge, the sun was shining and the burial mounds were highlighted. Stonehenge is surrounded by burial mounds. When excavated, one burial mound revealed 46 skeletons of people of all ages, most mounds have only one person. The single burials were used for kings or leaders who were buried with objects to use on their journey to the next world.
So much damage was caused by visitors breaking off pieces of stone, and walking or standing on the stones, that a fence now surrounds Stonehenge to prevent further vandalism. Just as we paid the admission fee, the sun went behind the clouds and the rain started. We took shelter in the tunnel that leads under the road to the standing stones. While we waited, we listened to audio players that told the story of Stonehenge. Brian went back to the car for our raincoats and umbrellas and, of course, got wet in the process.
The rain slackened and we decided not to wait any longer. Our first sight of the standing stones was with a light rain and they were shiny with moisture. The sky behind them was dark and made them stand out even more. The area is roped off and you are not allowed closer than 50 ft to the stones. But even at that distance, the size is impressive and astonishing! The tallest stone is 22 ft high and weighs over 45 tons.
The first Stonehenge was earthwork dating from 3000BC, 5000 years ago. The next phase included timber structures 4600 years ago. About 2600BC, 60 bluestones, weighing up to 4 tons each, were brought from southwest Wales about 240 miles away, where all shapes and sizes lay on the surface. At about 2400 to 1600BC, 30 upright sarsen stones, weighing about 25 tons each, and 30 sarsen lintels, the top stones forming the arch, weighing about 7 tons each, were brought to Stonehenge from Marlborough Downs, about 20 miles north. Sarsen is a natural sandstone, which occurs, in huge boulders on the surface at Marlborough Downs. The giant sarsen trilithon stones, which formed the inner circle, weighed over 45 tons each and were also transported from Marlborough Downs. The only way any of these stones could have been moved was by human muscles, aided by the simplest of devices made of ropes, levers, rollers and rafts.
The soil at Stonehenge consists of a thin layer of topsoil over chalk. Holes to support the standing stones were dug into the chalk with pick-axes made from the antlers of red deer and shovels made from the shoulder blades of cattle. Then the debris was carried away in baskets. The stones were shaped by pounding their surfaces with stone hammers including: mortice-and-tenon joints worked in solid stone; the lintels in the circle were locked end-to-end by vertical tongue-and-groove joints; and the sides of the lintels were shaped to the curve of the circle. Then the stones were raised into place with levers, ropes and Manpower. The holes were backfilled with small rocks and the lintels were lifted into place with manpower and ropes. The center of the circle and the Heel Stone are aligned with the sunrise on June 21st, the longest day of the year. The 4 Station stones marked the alignment with lunar cycles as well as the midwinter sunset.
Today, a lot of the original stones have fallen or been removed to build houses or roads and the prehistoric carvings on the larger sarsen stones are eroding. But even in ruins, the impression Stonehenge gives is that the impossible has happened here.
After going about half way around the circle, the rain started coming down in sheets. We were soaked by the time we run back to the tunnel. I couldn’t have been wetter if I’d been wading in water up to my knees and, as I discovered the hard way, my London Fog raincoat wasn’t waterproof. The rain had not let up in 15 minutes, so we decided to give up and go to the gift shop. A few minutes later, I looked out of the gift shop window and saw sunshine. I grabbed my camera and headed back for the standing stones. The sun, coming through the clouds and glinting off the stones, made the whole area look fresh and clean, and in a way, out of this world.
Because I find it so incredible to think that people 3600 years age could build a monument like Stonehenge, I find it easy to understand how so many stories have developed to account for this engineering marvel. At one time, it was thought that Stonehenge was built and used by the Druids, but it is now known that Stonehenge was built over 2000 years before the Druids existed, and was probably already in ruins. It has also been suggested that it was built by aliens from outer space. Even though I don’t believe that, I can see why the idea formed. No one knows for certain what the original use of Stonehenge was, because it was created before written history. It is believed to have been a prehistoric religious temple. I kept getting the feeling that there should not have been tourists there, and that it was a religious site. I felt that it was intended to be a gate to the after life because of the burial grounds surrounding the stone circles. Visiting Stonehenge was an unforgettable experience. No matter what the original purpose of Stonehenge was, it should be preserved. It is a monument to what man can do with only his mind to work with. Maybe we should be taking a few lessons from them.
I had just enough time to get a snack to go before we were on the road again - headed for Bath. All at once there appeared before us a man carved in the hillside. No, I was not dreaming. The figure of the Long Man of Wilmington in East Sussex may have been carved as much as 2500 years ago. It is 231 ft tall, with square shoulders 46 ft wide. The waist is 23 ft across, and the legs are 100 ft long. The Long Man was carved into the chalk layer of the hillside. When we passed, the sun was shining and the Long Man seemed to glow against the green grass of the field.
A few miles further on; we passed a small castle by the side of the road. Brian turned around so that we could get a better view. It was the Bath Lodge Hotel, a Bed and Breakfast.
When we stopped to take a photo, we had another surprise, and not a pleasant one. The rental van was making very unpleasant noises. Brian pulled into the car park of the Bath Lodge Hotel and looked under the hood. The fan belt had broken. It could have been a lot worse. At least, we were off of the road. Brian used his cell phone and called AA for a Recovery (We would have called AAA for a tow truck). We were there over an hour before a rescue truck arrived, only to tell us that when the fan belt frayed it caused damage that he could not fix. He called for a flat bed rescue vehicle with a large cab for all of us. And Brian called the rental car company. Brian apologized to us several times for ruining our vacation but we were having a wonderful time, talking to Pauline and the kids, playing I spy, listening to Phil make up stories, and playing with the Furby.
The weather was chilly and we were still wet but nothing could dampen our spirits. As nice as everyone else in England had been, it surprised me that no one from the hotel offered us the opportunity to get warm by their fireplace, or come in for a cup of coffee. We were allowed to use the restrooms that turned out to be in the circular towers. I loved the building but the people were not helpful enough for me to want to stay there.
The AA gave up on getting an answer about a replacement van from the rental car company and sent a rescue truck from Henton Rescue, Bath to take us to Heathrow Airport in London where we were to pick up another van furnished by AA. The rescue truck would then return the broken van to the rental car company. By the time the Rescue Truck arrived and loaded the van, it was over four hours since we had broken down. What could have been a long trip to Heathrow was turned into another adventure by our rescue driver.
It was dark and too late to tour Bath, or so we thought. As soon as the rescue driver found out that he had, not only an English family, but also, three American women tourists, he started teasing us. Mindy and I sat up front with the driver. Brian, Pauline, Carla, and Phil sat on a long seat in the back and Frances sat on a seat just behind us.
The rescue driver had to go to Bath to fill up with fuel before we headed for London. When we got to Bath, he gave us a tour by night. Being a native of Bath, he was able to tell us first hand about the city. Pauline has relatives in the area and had told us a lot about the area. From a hill above Bath, the lights of the city sparkled. It was beautiful! In Bath we crossed Pulteney Bridge, which was built in 1771. The bridge spans the River Avon. There are shops inside the bridge. It was well lit and there were lights shining on the flowing water. The view was spectacular. Bath is said to be one of the best preserved Georgian cities in Britain. It has a history going back over 2000 years. The Romans called the city Aquae Sulis. Although we did not get to visit the Roman Baths, we will remember our trip to Bath.
(NOTE: Even though we did not tour the Roman Baths, I have enclosed several photos from a previous trip in 1985. If it has not changed in centuries, I am sure it has not changed in a few years. The Roman Baths are located in the center of town, built over hot mineral springs. They are the best preserved Roman remains to be found anywhere in England. In the early 18th century the bath waters were believed to have healing powers. The pool is lined with LEAD sheeting. (No wonder the Romans were nuts.) Heat from the hot springs was pumped under the floors to heat the building. The Pump Room, with restaurant and tea room, adjoins the Roman Baths.)
We stopped at a rest area for a snack and a break. The trip would be long and it had been a long time since the snack at Stonehenge. The rest area proved to be very nice, with a gift shop and several other shops and fast food restaurants.
On the way to London the rescue driver told us to watch for the next town sign. It was Pennsylvania! (I thought we had left the USA, maybe we took a wrong turn?) Almost everyone else took a nap; I did not have time. The Rescue Driver’s sense of humor was wonderful; Mindy and I were kept laughing most of the way to London.
Heathrow Airport is on the outskirts of London but the city could be seen from miles away. When we got to Heathrow we kept going, and going, and going. The airport seemed endless. We finally reached the rental car company and picked up the new van. It had less than 1000 miles on the odometer. Another hour and we were home. Mindy, Frances and I agreed that we had had a very enjoyable day. Even the rescue proved to be another adventure. I don’t think Brian and Pauline agreed with us.
Sunday morning it was still raining. We heard on the news that the Stonehenge area was flooded. Oh well, what’s a little water. By this time we were dry and warm and ready to go again. We just took an extra pair of shoes and socks with us whenever we left home.
Mindy had wanted to visit the Royal Pavilion in Brighton; so, we were off to Brighton, the largest town in Sussex. Brighton became popular in 1754 when a doctor published an article describing the benefits of sea water. Our first stop in Brighton was the Royal Pavilion, the restored palace of the Prince of Wales, who became King George IV. Originally named the Marine Pavilion, it was his holiday home, built in 1787 and completed in 1820. The outside is in the Hindu style of India with domes, spires and columns. It looks a little out of place in England but it is beautiful. The gardens were lovely with elaborate fountains surrounded by flowers of all description and intertwined with quiet walking paths.
But, when you walk in the door, you enter another world. Most of the interior is decorated in Chinese decor that was popular at that time. It is complete with dragons on everything. I like dragons and I like Chinese décor, but the palace is opulent to the point of being gaudy. If you can see each item individually, they are beautiful! There is just so much jammed into every space that it is overwhelming. Photography was not allowed on the inside and to adequately describe it is impossible. Tall windows and skylights provide light during the day, while massive chandeliers provide light at night. Some of the light fixtures are fantastic and there are murals that are wonderful. There is a chandelier in the Banqueting Hall that consists of a large silver dragon supporting lily-like globes in its claws. If you are into Chinese dragons, this is the place for you, with dragons on the lights, walls, above the windows, in statues and any other place you could put one. Some of the dragons are Outstanding examples.
The music room has a gilded, cockleshell dome ceiling that I could not stop looking at. It was created with large shells on the outside gradually decreased to small shells in the center. The saloon was decorated in Indian style with gold, blue and white and a massive crystal chandelier and even though the room was elaborate, it was quiet when compared to the Chinese decor.
Every comfort and convenience for the King and party were considered. There were fireplaces for heating in every room, some rooms had more than one. They had bathrooms with flush water closets (toilets) and running water from cisterns on the roof. Eating was a key activity in the social life of the 1700s and 1800s and the kitchens proved that. They were huge with separate kitchens for the preparation of meats, vegetables, pastries and confectionery. There had been an icehouse where ice was gathered and stored in winter for the use year round or shipped in and stored.
The palace stables, across the road from the Royal Pavilion, was built in 1804. It has a great dome roof, 80ft in diameter and 65ft high. It housed over 60 horses and had quarters for the handlers and grooms. The stable is now a concert hall.
The story behind the palace is sad. The King taxed the people to the point of suffering to build the palace for himself. We could understand why the palace had been restored; it is part of English history. But we could see no good reason for it having been built to begin with. I guess every country has had kings, leaders and politicians who could not see past their own noses.
Brighton purchased the palace from Queen Victoria in 1850. Prior to the sale, the interior was stripped of most of it furnishings, including wallpapers, fixtures, decorative carvings and fireplaces. Many of the original items have since been returned to the Pavilion by Queen Victoria and the successive monarchs. The restoration, to the original plans approved by the King in 1820, still continues.
After leaving the Pavilion we walked through a garden square with a beautiful fountain in the center and on to the Palace Pier. The pier was built in 1898. It was misting and the wind was blowing hard. The beach was covered with small stones instead of sand. The waves were high and splashed over a huge breakwater. The pier was long and wide with shops and restaurants and lots of entertainment, including an amusement park on the far end. We had lunch in a restaurant in the center of the pier. I had the best Fish and Chips I have ever eaten. It was good to sit and absorb the atmosphere. At one point, I felt a wave hit the bottom of the pier and the pier sway. That made me feel a little uneasy, but no one else even seemed to notice.
After lunch we explored the pier. There was a gypsy wagon with beautiful colors, arcade games and shops. The view of the city was beautiful. It rained hard for a few minutes and then the sun came out, complete with a double rainbow over the city. The storm clouds were very dark behind the city and Brighton was glowing. The white cliffs to the east of the city were silver white and the panoramic view was one of the most beautiful I can remember.
As we were leaving the pier we noticed bulldozers at work on the beach. We were told that there had been a storm that morning sometime after 6:00am. The storm had washed the stone from the beach onto the sidewalk leaving a layer of stones over 3 ft deep blocking the beach level shops. A dumpster that had been left at 6:00am had been thrown into one of the shops. Three young boys, who had been standing on the beach, got too close to the water and a wave washed them out to sea. We had heard a lot of sirens while we toured the palace, but had not realized what was happening.
From the street, looking out on the beach and sea, it was easy to tell how wild the waves had been. A small building on the beach was half buried in stones. I was told that the beach is normally small stones and not sand, as we have in South Carolina.
Brighten was lovely with old, well cared for buildings and cobblestone streets. Even the streetlights were decorative. The light rain started again, but we didn’t care. We explored narrow lanes, with shops on both sides, and surprises around every corner. Some of the lanes were only wide enough for two people to pass. The shopping was wonderful with good bargains, even considering the exchange rate. We fell in love with Brighton. It is a wonderful city that we would like to visit again.
It was getting late and the time had arrived to leave for home. After riding in the car for a few minutes we discovered that Furby, who had been left in the car, had learned to mimic the ringing of a telephone and the wail of sirens.
On the way home we went through Royal Tunbridge Wells, a major resort city of the 19th century. Next came Tunbridge and a wonderful sight. The old Tunbridge Castle was lit with floodlights on the street side. Brian turned around, stopped the van and we all stared. Brian told us to look at the base of the flag pole. Later, Mindy described a figure in a white robe with his arms lifted as the Pope would. Pauline described a monk in white robes. Neither Frances nor I had seen anyone, although we had looked at the same place. As he drove by, Brian had seen a figure in white robes with his arms raised. He had turned around to get a better look. The figure had changed the position of its arms. Brian said that there is no statue below the flagpole and the castle was closed to tourists at that time of night. You decide! I want to go back.
Soon we were home and resting for the next day. We heard on the news that the remains of Hurricane Irene had caused damage at Brighton. (I thought we had left Hurricane Irene in the USA!)
Monday brought light rain. Pauline and the kids were out of school for the week. My request had been to visit an Oast House. So, off we went to The Hop Farm Country Park in the Kent countryside. The hop farm was formally known as the Whitbread Hop Farm, which had been owned by the Whitbread Brewery. The hop farm is located at Beltring, not far from Midway. Kent is famous for hops, which are used in beer making as a preservative and to give the beer its bitter taste and aroma. The farm has a museum that allowed us to step back in time as it tells the story of hop growing, picking and drying.
The Oast Houses are Victorian buildings used to dry the hops. The hops were laid on the upstairs, lattice floor and a fire was built in the furnace area on the ground floor. The Oast Houses have cone roofs with white cone tops that swivel in the breeze. They act as chimneys to draw air through the hops to dry them. Electric exhaust fans were added in the cone roofs in the 1920s to assist in the drying process when there was no breeze.
To my surprise and delight Brian told us a personal story of hop farming when he was a child:
Brian’s personal knowledge of hop farming added so much to our tour. Today, hop farming is an all-but-forgotten industry in England. The hop strings are run by workers riding on a raised platform on a tractor and picked by machines.
Shire horses were used to pull the wagons of hops to the brewery and to deliver the beer. The Shire horses at the farm are magnificent animals with shoes as big as meat platters. The horses are about 6 ft tall at the shoulder and weigh about a ton. Several of the beer wagons are on display including an 18th century dray used by Samual Whitbread to deliver beer in 1742. They offer a dray ride around the farm that children of all ages love. The animal farm has Welsh and Shetland ponies for the children to enjoy. The ponies look like midgets when compared to the Shire horses.
As well as the normal assortment of animals, the animal farm has a Scottish Highland Bull that weighs about 2 tons. He has long shaggy hair and, as his name suggests, he is from the Highlands of Scotland where his long heavy coat prepares him for harsh winters.
The Hop Farm County Park has something for everyone. There are quite a few small, antique steam engines on display. A pottery shop offers children of all ages the opportunity to play with clay. And a playground, picnic area and restaurant are on site. The farm, also, has a display of WWII military trucks and vehicles that are part of the War and Peace Show held each year at the farm.
We had lunch at the farm and headed for our next destination, Leeds Castle.
Leeds Castle is located near Leeds, Kent. Or should I say Leeds is located near Leeds Castle, since the city grew because of the Castle. Upon arriving at the car park of Leeds Castle, we purchased tickets and started on a walk to the castle through the gardens. The sun came out and the half mile walk was one of the most scenic I could have asked for. The path led us beside a stream and there were brilliant fall colors with flowers mixed in. Peacocks were looking down on us from a hill. There is a thatched roofed cottage on the edge of the gardens. That was the first cottage that I have seen that looks like the ones displayed in books and fairy tails.
Our first view of the castle left us believing the brochure that said Leeds is the most beautiful castle in England. The castle is built on two small islands in the center of a lake, formed by the River Len. The lake was as still as glass and the castle reflected on the surface. The site dates back to the 9th century as a manor house owned by Saxon Kings, and is mentioned in the Doomsday Book of 1086. The present castle was built of stone almost 900 years ago. Ragstone from a local quarry was used.
Through the centuries Leeds has been a Norman fortress, a royal residence to six of England’s medieval Queens (gaining the name "Lady’s Castle"), a palace to Henry VIII and a private home. The castle has been the site of several movies and an episode of Magnum PI.
The walkway across the lake led to the Barbican (an arched gate), the Fortified Mill - built about 1300 to grind cornmeal and make flour for bread, and the Gatehouse with a drawbridge. They were part of the original castle defense system. On the way around the castle to the visitor’s entrance we saw the Leeds Monster! Yes, the Leeds Monster! It was made of cabbage and was about 3 ft high and 15 ft long.
We entered through the back into the Norman wine cellar. There was no photography allowed on the inside because of security, but I was allowed to take a photo of a ceiling with beautifully carved oak beams and a beautiful stonework fireplace, that I could have stood in. I also was allowed to take photos looking out of the windows at the beautiful view of the lake and gardens. There was a wooden door and frame that was so beautiful; I was sure I could get a post card of it, but that was not to be. The interior was beautifully furnished with period furnishings and decorated with carved wooden beams, Tudor stonework, wall hangings and tapestries. There is a 16th century Gothic spiral staircase, imported from France, that is marvelous. The entire hand rail and central post is carved from one tree, with the top a carved statue. There are places in the castle that I would have loved to linger just gazing at the architecture. The castle has required a lot of restoration and a lot of the materials were brought from other old homes in England and France.
We exited through the front door into a courtyard. A Croquet Set was set up on the lawn. The Maiden’s Tower is on the side of the courtyard. The Maiden’s Tower was built for the Royal Maids-of -Honour. It is still used as a private residence and is not open to the public. The Gatehouse is directly in front of the castle and now has an antique dog collar museum. The upper floor of the Gatehouse was originally the lodgings of the Constable.
The inside of the castle was impressive, but the outside was heaven. There were black swans and all kinds of ducks floating on the sparkling lake. The trees were glowing with their fall finery, and with the sun shining on the castle wall, the castle seems to float on its island, a place suspended in time. We wandered past the Aviary, home to over 100 species of rare tropical birds, to the maze and found ourselves challenged to solve its puzzle. After wandering for quite a while, I spotted a young boy, who seemed to know where he was going, so I followed him. (Yes, I know I cheated, but I was too tired to care.) The children had found the path to the center long before any of us had. At the center is a mound with panoramic views of the park and the gardens.
At the center of the maze is, also, the entrance to the Grotto, an underground fantasy world guarded by mystical beasts. The cave and tunnel have inlays of seashells and colored stones, statues, and wooden monsters. The sights were wonderful and played on the imagination. Seeing the Grotto made wandering in the maze worthwhile. Halfway through the Grotto, I found Frances. She had given up and found the back entrance.
The sunset was beautiful and on the LONG return walk to the car, we found Red Mushrooms or toadstools about 5" across and saw peacocks and peahens roosting in the trees.
The day had been perfect! The weather had been perfect! We went home to a wonderful meal and great company. We watched a little television and were surprised with the difference in the commercials. They were more fun and risqué.
Tuesday had been planned as a day of rest and local shopping, but since Frances had wanted to see London, we decided on one more day of sightseeing, this time by train. I had not ridden a train since I was 5 years old and Frances had never ridden one. England has an extensive system of passenger trains. We purchased transportation passes that entitled us to ride trains and buses all day.
Our train left from Chatham station at 10am for the 45-minute trip to Victoria Station, London, with only two stops on the way. The countryside was lovely and the weather could not have been more perfect.
Victoria Station is a huge building with high ceilings and multiple tracks. Victoria had trains arriving and leaving every few minutes. It is lined with shops of all kinds, restaurants and snack bars. Frances had to exchange money, which was easily accomplished in Victoria. We spotted five leader dogs for the blind in training in the midst of all the trains and people.
We could have ridden the city buses on our transportation passes but we wanted a tour. And our trip would not have been completed without a ride on the top deck of a double deck tour bus. It was chilly but the sun was shining. Many of the streets are very narrow and yet there were cars parked on the streets.
There are no Roads in London! It’s true! There are streets but no roads. There is a saying that all roads lead to Rome. England decided that there would be no roads in London to lead to Rome, so there are only streets.
The bus swerved around the stopped cars with only inches of clearance between them. There was a lot of exhaust fumes and even with a light breeze, I felt closed in by the buildings on both sides. And yet, the older buildings are not high by US standards. Most old buildings are only up to seven stories high. Of course, the modern buildings tower over London. Many of the buildings are very old or have been restored. Most of the modern buildings look out of place.
We passed Buckingham Palace, the Tower of London, Big Ben and The Houses of Parliament and New Scotland Yard. When we saw a flower seller standing on the side of the street, I felt that I had really stepped back in time. At Whitehall, an area that houses the British government, we saw the Mounted Guards in front of Horse Guards (that is the name of the building). The Buckingham Palace gates were beautiful, including one that was a birthday gift to the Queen Mother. (I guess I know now what to give someone who has everything! "What do you want for your birthday?" "Oh, I don’t know, how about a gate!")
Piccadilly Circus is not a circus but is a mixture of old and new buildings at a very busy intersection or roundabout. It is the junction of four major thoroughfares and a tube station or subway with two busy lines. London’s tube is the oldest and largest underground network in the world! Two of the corner buildings of Piccadilly Circus are brightly painted and lit with advertising signs. Another corner is a beautiful old building with statues adorning the edges of the roof.
The Shaftesbury Memorial, erected in 1893, is in the center of the roundabout and has steps leading to a bronze fountain. The fountain is surmounted with the statue of Eros, the God of Love, but was meant to represent the Angel of Charity. The statue is cast in aluminum.
The Ritz Hotel is on the corner of Piccadilly and Green Park and is The Place for Afternoon Tea in a thoroughly traditional British setting. (But bring your charge card! The prices are definitely 21st century.)
Much of the Thames riverbanks are walkways with flowers and decorative street lamps. The River Thames winds its way through the city dividing the City of London and Westminster. We had thought of the city as just being London. The only way to tell when you leave one and enter the other is by the signs and the dragons. London is guarded by dragons! You can not enter the city of London without passing a statue of a dragon. The City of London is a 677 acre (only about one square mile) area just north of the River Thames. London, as we know it today, is the business and financial center of England.
The boundaries of the City of London coincide with the original Roman city, Londinium, which was referred to in 67AD as "a flourishing trading center". A section of the original Londinium city wall which dates from around 200 AD still stands across the street from the Tower of London. The remaining section of wall is 24 ft high and 3 ft thick. It originally surrounded the city with at total length of 3.25 miles and was up to 7 ft thick. It is made of red Roman brick and amalgam, masonry used to bind the bricks together.
The Tower of London wall was partially built on the old Roman city wall. The Tower of London is not just a tower, but is a castle consisting of a group of buildings enclosed in a massive wall that has arrow slots. The Tower occupies over 18 acres on the bank of the River Thames and has been a palace, fortress, prison, and royal mint and jewel house. It was home to every monarch from William the Conqueror (11th century) to Henry the VIII (16th century) and has housed the Royal Menagerie and the Royal Observatory.
Quite a few famous people have entered the Tower of London through Traitors Gate and have been imprisoned and executed in the Tower. The Traitors Gate is a gate in the river below St. Thomas’s Tower that enters the tower grounds from the River Thames. The last executions in the Tower were during the Second World War when several spies were shot. The infamous "block" where many prisoners were beheaded can be seen on the Tower Green.
The most prominent building of the Tower of London is the White Tower or Keep, started in 1078 and completed in 1097. The White Tower is 90 ft high and has 15 ft thick walls.
The British Crown Jewels are housed in the Jewel House of the Tower of London, which had been the Duke of Wellington’s Barracks, also known as Waterloo Barracks. The jewel collection is extensive and very impressive, although I can not imagine anyone wearing most of them. Among the jewels displayed are: The Royal Sceptre, containing the largest cut diamond in the world; the Imperial State Crown, made in 1838 for the coronation of Queen Victoria containing 3000 precious stones including the second largest cut diamond in the world; and the crown made in 1937 for the coronation of George VI’s Queen, Elizabeth, the present Queen Mother.
The Yeoman Warders, popularly known as Beefeaters, have guarded the Tower of London for over 500 years. The Beefeaters still wear scarlet and gold Tudor dress uniforms with the royal cypher on the front of the tunic. Their undress uniform is dark blue with red piping. There are about 40 Yeoman Warders in service and they have all served as non-commissioned officers in one of the British military forces.
Every visitor to the Tower of London soon discovers the ravens. Legend tells that the disappearance of the ravens will signal the disintegration of the Kingdom. The ravens are kept within the tower grounds with clipped wings. Although the ravens show no fear of the visitors, it is wise to respect them. They can be unfriendly! (And if you try to harm them, you will find that the Yeoman can be unfriendly too!)
The Tower Bridge crosses the River Thames next to the Tower of London. The Tower Bridge was completed in 1894 and is wonderful. The twin steel Gothic-Victorian towers, 213 ft high, are faced with granite and Portland stone. They are supported my massive foundations sunk 25 ft into the Thames riverbed. The center lower section is a drawbridge and the center upper section is connected by two footbridges over 150 ft high. The towers are connected to their riverbanks by two, 269 ft chain, suspension bridges. The north tower contains an observation tower and the south tower is home to the Tower Bridge Museum.
Most of the bridges in London are elaborately painted and are beautiful. The London Bridge is an exception. The London Bridge is Not the Tower Bridge and has never fallen down as the nursery rhyme claims - although one of the original structures was washed away by a flood, and another was torn down by invading Vikings in 1014. Constructed in 1973, the current bridge is a modern day bridge of poured concrete and is not worth singing about or looking at. The medieval bridge, built in 1209, was constructed of stone, had 20 arches and was standing on 19 irregularly spaced stone piers. It was 910 ft 10 in long and 20 ft wide with only 12 ft of road width. Despite the limited width it had 138 shops and a chapel on the bridge. In addition, one section was a drawbridge. This London Bridge was mentioned in two of Charles Dickens’ works. It was replaced in 1831 with a stone bridge that had 5 arches. In 1970 that London Bridge was purchased by a company from the USA for one million Pounds and dismantled. It is now at Lake Havasu, Arizona. (Why? Maybe they thought they were buying the Tower Bridge or the medieval London Bridge.)
The clock tower attached to the Houses of Parliament building is referred to as Big Ben. However, Big Ben is, actually, the nickname for the bell, not the clock or tower. The bell weighs13 ½ tons, the pendulum is 13ft tall and weighs 685 lb. The clock is 23 ft wide and the minute hand is 14 ft long. The accuracy of the clock is maintained by using old pennies as counter balance!
The Houses of Parliament and Big Ben are in Westminster on the banks of the River Thames. The Houses of Parliament, officially known as the New Palace of Westminster, is a huge neo-Gothic style building that was built in the mid-19th century. It is the seat of the House of Commons and the House of Lords. The House of Commons was destroyed in 1941 during WW II. It was rebuilt in a similar style and reopened in 1950. The Houses of Parliament covers over 8 acres and contains two miles of corridors and 1200 rooms. Victoria Tower, 330 ft high, is the tallest of the Parliament buildings and is the world’s tallest square tower.
The Royal Courts of Justice, or the Law Courts as they are commonly called, are Victorian Gothic style buildings erected between 1874 and 1882 and have close to 1000 rooms. The Law Courts house the Supreme Court of Justice for England and Wales and are where major civil cases are heard. I found the English legal system very complicated. There are two separate professions, those of barrister and solicitor. The barrister is a lawyer or attorney qualified to plead for a client at the High Court level. He can also write opinions on the prospect of a case before trial. However, he has no direct contact with the client. The solicitor does have direct contact with the client but cannot appear before the High Court and must fully brief the barrister on behalf of his client. I don’t know who is penalized the most by this system. I can not imagine trusting a lawyer I could not talk to or trusting someone else to talk to a lawyer on my behalf. For the barrister or the solicitor, it would take a lot of trust in the abilities, honesty and thoroughness of the other person to compile and try a case. (I think I would rather trust the US system.)
There are many beautiful churches and cathedrals in London. One of them is St. Martin-in-the-Fields, which is the parish church for Buckingham Palace and the Royal Family. The church, which is located at Trafalgar Square, has a steeple that is 184 ft high. The present building of St. Martin was built in 1726 but a church has stood on that site since 1222.
St. Paul’s Cathedral, also known as London Cathedral, is a massive Renaissance church, 558 ft long, 246 ft wide, with 2 Baroque bell towers 154 ft tall, and a dome 364 ft high. One of the bell towers has twelve bells; the other has the largest bell in England, Great Paul, weighing in at almost 17 tons. The current building was designed after the original St. Paul’s was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. It was started in 1675 and finished in 1711. St. Paul’s is the seat of the Bishop of London and "parish church of the British Commonwealth". The Royal Wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana was held there. St. Paul’s is the fifth church to have stood on that site; the first was a Roman temple dedicated to (another) Diana.
There is, also, a St. Paul’s Church in London, which was designed in 1633. It is a back to front church because the main door is in the rear. Known as "the actors church" in London’s theater land, St. Paul’s church has many famous actors and actresses buried there, including Boris Karloff and Vivien Leigh.
Southwark Cathedral, part of which was built in 1220, is a grand example of a Gothic design with its 180 ft square tower. It was built on the site of a large Norman church dating from 1106. Southwark Cathedral is the mother church of the Anglican diocese of Southwark, covering most of London south of the River Thames. The Church was elevated to its status as a cathedral in 1905. It is currently under restoration, which is a continuous process for London buildings.
On the side of a street, surrounded by modern buildings, is the ancient ruin of the Roman Temple of Mithras. It had been in active use until 350AD and had been dedicated to Mithras, the Persian "god of light". Only the foundation remains. The existence of the Temples was suspected when a plaque was found in 1889, however, the Temple location, on Queen Victoria Street, was not discovered until 1954, while excavating for a new building complex. The ruins were dismantled, block by block, and moved to their present location.
Many buildings are adorned with clocks or statues. And there are statues and memorials in every Square. My personal favorite is a bronze statue, dating 1850, of Queen Boadicea in a chariot. She was the queen of the British Tribe Iceni in 60AD. When the Romans raped her daughters, she was furious and descended on the city of Londinium, as London was known at that time. She inflicted a lot of damage, burning most of the settlement, and gave the Romans their greatest defeat. (And they say 1990’s women are strong!)
Another beautiful monument is the Constitution Arch at Hyde Park Corner. The arch was erected in 1828 and was formerly known as the Wilmington Arch. It commemorates Wilmington’s triumph at Waterloo. In 1912 the original statue of Wilmington was moved and replaced with the bronze four horse chariot of the Goddess of Peace taming the four horses of War.
A 202 ft tall spike tower, constructed of White Portland Stone, is called simply The Monument. A golden urn with a golden fireball is mounted on the top. The Monument, erected in 1667 to commemorate the Great Fire of London, is still the tallest isolated column in the world. The fire started in a bakery on the morning of September 2nd, 1666, exactly 202 ft from where The Monument now stands. It spread to the entire city and lasted for four days, devastated four-fifths of the city, destroyed 13,200 homes and 84 churches, and left 100,000 people homeless.
The Admiralty Arch was completed in 1911 as part of a memorial to Queen Victoria. The only one allowed to drive through the center arch is the sovereign. The view shown is from Trafalgar Square. The Mall, a wide thoroughfare lined with impressive mansions, extends from the Admiralty Arch, on the city end, to the front of Buckingham Palace.
The Victoria Monument, unveiled in 1911, is in the center of the circle in front of Buckingham Palace in the Mall. The sides of the white marble monument have sculptures of Queen Victoria seated, surrounded by figures representing Victory, Endurance, Courage, Truth, Justice, Science, Art and Agriculture. It is surmounted by the golden, winged figure of Victory.
The Charing Cross is a replica of a beautiful memorial that was erected upon the death of Edward I’s Queen, Eleanor of Castile, in 1290. The original was removed in 1647 after centuries of decay, and the replica, based on the original drawings, was erected in 1865.
On the boundary of London and Westminster, the entrance to Fleet Street is guarded by a griffin that adorns the Temple Bar Memorial. The Temple Bar Memorial stands on the site of the Temple Bar Gate where decapitated heads used to be displayed. Tradition requires the sovereign to stop at the gate and await the Lord Mayor’s permission to enter the city of London.
The new London Eye is a Ferris wheel over 146 ft high. It towers over London on the edge of the Thames and can be seen from most locations. It will be there for five years starting with the millennium celebration and has caused quite a stir in London. It seems that people either love it or hate it. It looks a little out of place but the view from the top should be wonderful.
England’s taverns or pubs have an atmosphere of their own. Many London taverns are a delight to look at. The Shakespeare and the Shipwreck Arms are but two of these.
We wandered the walks in front of Buckingham Palace and watched the Foot Guard marching back and forth. In the summer they wear bright red and black uniform. Their winter uniform is black. Brian had been in the Queen’s Guard and had been stationed at Buckingham Palace for a short time. He was able to explain to us what was happening and guide us to the best viewing areas.
Buckingham Palace is set in 40 acres of well tended gardens. It was purchased by King George III for his wife, Charlotte, in 1762. King George IV started extensive enlargements and restorations, but they were so expensive that it became a scandal. (YES, this was the same King George IV who spent so much on his summer home in Brighton. I guess one elaborate palace could not possibly be enough.) It was not finished and lived in until Queen Victoria made it the London residence of the British Royal Family in 1837. The Palace has over 600 rooms and is both the Royal Family’s private apartments (in the north wing) and the headquarters of the British Monarchy. If the Queen is in residence, the royal standard flies over the Palace.
The people of London did not seem as friendly as in the smaller areas, but that seems to be the way with all large cities. We shopped for a little while, then headed for Victoria Station and the peace, quiet, and comfort of Kent. There are many beautiful buildings in London. But, to me, the beauty of England is not in London, but in the countryside and the people.
We were SO glad to have had Brian and Pauline accompany us to London. They made the trip so easy and their knowledge of the area added so much enjoyment. They pointed out things that were not listed in the tour guides, things we would have missed, and gave us history lessons every step of way. And by now, we felt that Brian was not only our friend and tour guide but also our bodyguard!
When our train arrived in Chatham, we collected the kids and went to dinner. We had a beautiful sunset, and the Harvester Restaurant was lovely. It has a thatched roof and old, farming tools lining the walls. The food was good, and the atmosphere was great, and the company could not have been better!
We spent a relaxing evening looking at photos Brian and Pauline had taken on some of their trips, watching TV, and just enjoying their company.
Wednesday arrived and with it our day to go home. There were a lot of mixed feelings. There was so much more we wanted to see and do. But most of all, we would miss Our British Family! But, we had families at home that we missed, ... and work called.
There was still time for a little excursion. We went shopping, to a grocery store. It was an adventure. There were so many different food items and brands. It was a good thing that I had not gone grocery shopping upon arrival. I would have had a cart full, trying to try one of each. As it was, I stuffed my suitcase with cookies and candy to take home.
We packed our suitcases, said goodbye to the children and Furby, and headed to Gatwick Airport. Our adventure was over, or was it. Brian told us that he had something to show us on the way. He stopped at a lookout at Blue Bell Hill. The panorama was breathtaking. The valley spread out below us, with villages dotting the landscape. There is a memorial at the lookout to a helicopter crew who crashed near there in July 1998.
Soon we were in the car again, and this time with no stopping. But, the roadside scenery kept our interest. The sun was shining and you could not ask for more beautiful views. We arrived at Gatwick in plenty of time, wandered the shops, then said our good-byes. Until NEXT TIME!
Our return flight was uneventful. We left Gatwick at 4:00pm and were routed through Newark, New Jersey. The worst part of the trip was a three-hour wait at the Newark Airport. We had expected a delay coming through Immigration and Customs but they took the cards that had been provided to us on the plane, and welcomed us home. We collected our luggage and took it to the proper airline for our return to Charlotte, North Carolina. The flight had taken 7 hours and we gained 5 hours. Even though it was 7:00pm New Jersey time, our bodies insisted that it was midnight. By the time we got to Charlotte, and collected our luggage and car, it was 11:00pm our time, 5am British time. We could go no further. We got a motel and slept. By 9:00am, we were rested and went home to open arms, surprises and Lots of Questions about our trip.
It took a couple of weeks to be revived enough to want to travel again, but now we can’t wait until our Next Vacation In Time.
